Making Love Visible - Rome
The essence of Rome is far from the obvious lure of its history and patinaed beauty.
“The eternal city somehow managed to imbibe my very being with the soft glow, known to yellow ochre and then elevate me into a place within, grounded by burnt umber with the confidence of orange as I let myself be drawn by the echoes of her voices and persuade me to become one with my inner being. ”
It’s early November and the first place I land after flying 20 hours from Sydney. Rome is basking in sunlight, but not crowded. I remember how Fellini said “underneath Rome today is ancient Rome, so close. I am always conscious of that, and it thrills me.“ It is a palpable experience simply being here and somehow for me ignites the source of why I have begun this wonderful journey to travel alone.
Rome is a sensory city, and it is impossible to not feel completely alive here. I find a secluded bar, Il Baretto and take my first sip of Frascati or “ golden wine “ grown a stone’s throw from Rome and etched with flavours of the volcanic soils. I order a simple Bruschetta alla romana and sat watching as the sun fades and the twilight illuminates my sense of adventure.
Sleep:
Chapter Roma
Jewish Quarter
Global, chic, boutique, moody, clean, good vibes, local mix up, roof top bar
So close to everything
One Day
The Perfect Day
Discovering my favourite area
Begin where you end
Navigating by the walls that hold their own truths
From Chapter Roma, cross the bridge over the Tiber River to the Trastevere area. Begin at Fontana De Ponte Sisto, walking northwest along Via Di Ponte Sisto to find Via Di Benedetta. Follow this road to a potted olive tree sitting adjacent a pale lemon building with a muted turquoise door. This is Santa Dortea, its exterior almost invisible as a landmark, but with an opulent interior of the late Baroque period which seems to glow with an ethereal quality, illuminated with the essence of golden hues, here I was transported into a realm of feeling the ineffable.
Just around the corner is Della Scala, a long road that leads to Porta Settimiana which is the northern gate of Trastevere, go through the archway which will lead directly onto Della Lungara, a very long straight road, where after two or three minutes of walking along the walled road, appear towering trees and an a substantial iron arched gateway to Villa Farnesina. Built in the 16th century the Villa is extraordinary, as if entering a world defined by the pursuit of beauty. It appears as an oasis to the ideals of Renaissance Humanism. I was enamoured as I wandered in this world between the walls, that were speaking the visions of Raphael and this period that embraced this idea of high art and culture.
Leaving Villa Farnesina, return to Porta Settimiana and walk along Via Garibaldi along the hill continuing to follow the curved road where the cobblestones end and a proper two-way road begins. Continue ascending the hill following the tall grey wall on the right for about one hundred meters to an iron gate. Go through the gate, follow the path to Reale Academia di Spagna a Roma. Built on the place of Saint Peter's crucifixion, is II Tempietto Del Bramante. The celestially painted dome was cause for deep breath, I felt completely insignificant and yet at the same time overcome by the aura of the blue. Continue to walk along the road, passing the Mausoleo Ossario Garibaldino to the Fontana dell’Acqua Paolo and continue up the hill to the American Academy in Rome.
My journey walking from the intimate streets below to the elevated heights above the city gave me perspective to not only experience the timeline of the growth of the city, Villa Farnesina was in the 16th Century considered a country villa, but walking in this area along the walled roads conjured a sense of the observer, a way to find space and be part of transporting myself to the past.
As I walked, feeling the passing of time by the measure of the giant trees that towered above the aged buildings, I imagine the lives and history behind the walls and find a sense of place, that as I weaved down the hill along Via Dandol, crossing to Via Emilio Morosine, to Via Roma Libera then finding myself at Bar San Callisto, where the locals reside at a long bar perfect for watching the comings and goings, this brought me back to Rome as it is now, but with a feeling of knowing something other.
In the area:
Trastevere
Otaleg - Gelato: I can never resist Pistachio
Bar San Callisto - great espresso, constant bubbling energy
Latteria Trastevere - wine bar
Enoteca Ferrara - best aperitivio hour with plates of marinated olives and tomato/ mozzarella served at the bar. Stay at the bar or stay longer to eat in the informal trattoria or upstairs at the elevated ristorante. I recommend the homemade gnocchi with black truffles
Caffe Settimiano - around the corner from Santa Doreta
Osteria Da Zi Umberto - my favourite Cacio e Pepe
As Days Go By
My guide to navigating Rome became the light shining through the windows, illuminating what must be seen. A city of illusions and basked in sensory expression I became intoxicated with allowing myself to explore using my intuition.
The benefits of jet lag left me wide awake before the baristas had made the first espresso of the day. I explored the Piazza Navona, Spanish steps and Campo Dei Fiori first thing in the morning when the streets are quiet, the light soft, as I followed the glow through the narrow streets.
Each day I was guided by how I wanted to feel rather than what I wanted to do. Sometimes not deciding on anything other than wanting to see a particular landmark, led me to an area on the way that was essence of what I wanted to experience. On my way to the Pantheon, I spent the day discovering Parione. The narrow maze of streets and alleys where the walls are deep with rusted toned patinas and covered in vines. I loved not knowing what I was about to discover until I turned a corner, one opening onto a cobbled stone square with an intimate wine bar, Vino Olio. This divine umber lit bar was a perfect place to enjoy a moment of quiet with a glass of red wine and be lured into the mood of passing time. Within this area I came across Origami, Chez Dede and Abiti Usati, three stores unique and interesting to peruse. I particularly wanted to visit Non Solo Arte, a specialist art store with an exquisite selection of hand pressed paper and pigments sourced and made within close proximity of Rome.
“I walked as the sun set to see the Pantheon at night, it appears if projected on the ink sky of the evening, almost floating. Somehow it felt other worldly, magnified in not only size but the detail of every surface becoming indelible to my being. ”
My sole motivation one morning and the only line I waited for in Europe, was at the much talked about bakery, Antico Forno Roscioli. No time to be indecisive here, just buy as much as you think you can eat in a day and plan to walk a lot. From the focaccia with pesto and artichokes and the astonishing variety of Sfogliatelle, I love the classic filled with Ricotta and how it bursts through the crisp pastry.
So now, well-nourished the day unfolded by visiting the Galleria Doria Pamphilij, the 16th century palace and private museum housing the collection of the Doria family. The collection includes masterpieces by Titian, Raphael, Caravaggio, Correggio and Vélazquez. Hundreds if not thousands of paintings and sculptures cover the walls and floor space, made even more opulent by the reflection from mirrors, that have been added to the walls as panels that create a dizzying effect of being surrounded by the energy of the masterpieces. As I left in a whirl, I found time to digest both my pastries and the art I had just been consumed by in the beautiful, manicured courtyard of the palace.
The other world that is tantalising to me and one that stirs my senses is that of food. In the four days I was in Rome, it was difficult to choose but Pianostrada Laboratorio di Cucina was a meal that lives vividly in my memory. To taste the fresh house made focaccia with three oils of varying flavour, mixed together like a cocktail of green intensity and served with lush salt and rosemary was a delight. Followed by the freshest zucchini flowers, mint, cured with olive oil topping a thin melted cheese layer on yet another piece of fresh focaccia. The main course was exquisite, cannelloni filled with a ricotta and just cooked prawns, with scattered mushrooms, baby greens, assorted edible flower petals and a rich prawn bisque. The individual lemon curd and Italian meringue tart was the epitome of la dolce vita!
Some other restaurants that I have food memories for are, Su Ghetto for perfect Carciofo alla Giudia ( jewish style artichoke). Piperno where the Fried Zucchini Blossoms melted into the softest taste of pale green. At L’Antica Enoteca the antipasto of green olives and aged parmesan is served with local honey to dip into, before I devoured the most indulgent Carbonara with pecorino romano, parmigiano and bacon.
From here I made my way to Santa Maria Della Pace, this delicate church with its rounded portico design by Pietro Da Cortona houses famous frescoes by Raphael. Illuminated by slithers of light that sneak through the small windows I was glad to feel grounded, as they hold an unsettling intensity with the deep vibrant tones and blurred realism.
Somehow Rome for me unearths the endless possibility of how this city is eternal in the way that every experience, even something visited before, is unique. In so many ways the essence of the city and surrounds is a sensory shock, bursting with sights, smells, tastes, sounds and how it feels to be immersed here, that it is like a ride into part of myself I am unaware of, yet feels familiar in the ecstasy that bubbles from within me.